- When should you use a retinol alternative?
Here are the times when you need to use something other than a retinoid:
– Sensitive skin – If you have sensitive skin, you should consider a retinol alternative. One way to know that answer is to answer the question I ask my clients: do you experience any dryness or “flakiness” after you apply an over-the-counter product? If the answer is yes, you likely have sensitive skin and should consider a gentler alternative.
– You’re pregnant or breastfeeding (congratulations) – Retinols are FDA Pregnancy Category C medications which means that animal studies have shown these medications had an adverse effect on the fetus. Remember retinols are vitamin A and high doses of vitamin A are associated with an increased risk of birth defects.
– You have a rash like eczema – Retinols dry your skin out so if your skin is already dry, take caution!
– You are looking for a daytime regimen – Retinols only come out at night and are unstable in the sun. You should only use retinols prior to bedtime for the best results.
- Please list your top 4-5 retinol alternative ingredients (like bakuchiol, peptides, vitamin C, etc.) For each ingredient you list, explain *why* it’s a good alternative / what benefits it has / who it’s a good fit for.
Here are my top 5:
- Peptides
Why: Peptides provide similar benefits to retinols but are gentle on the skin, enhance hydration and promote wound healing.
What: Stimulates collagen production and helps with repairing damaged skin.
Who: This will be good for people after a skin procedure (since the peptides help promote wound healing), those interested in preventing signs of aging or those beginning to recognize early signs of aging (e.g. fine lines, sagging skin, etc.)
- Bakuchiol
Why: This is a plant-based product that can help reduce fine lines, issues with tone or pigmentation and overall texture.
What: This compound is an antioxidant that helps to stimulate collagen and accelerate skin turnover
Who: Safe to use during pregnancy and can be used during the day
- Vitamin C
Why: Its a vitamin (and a powerful antioxidant)!
What: Its a vitamin! As a vitamin, it can protect against free radical damage and produce more collagen. Vitamin C also assist with fading dark spots and helping with the tone of our skin. Serums that contain between 10-20% of vitamin C will generally lead to the best results.
Who: Great for individuals looking to address skin tone issues. It is safe to use during the daytime.
- Niacinamide
Why: Its also a vitamin (vitamin B3)! Its extremely well tolerated by the skin
What: Niacinamide works with your skin’s natural barrier to improve its texture (fine lines/wrinkles) and tone (dark spots). It can further help control oil production and retain moisture in the skin by strengthening your skin’s barrier.
Who: Great for people with acne or acne-prone skin.
- Rosemary extract
Why: This is a natural plant based ingredient from the leaves of the rosemary plant that is packed with antioxidants.
What: This antioxidant powerhouse will help to hasten skin repair and defend against free radicals that accelerate aging. It also improves circulation to the skin resulting in a healthy glow while reducing oil production and fighting bacteria.
Who: Great for people with acne or acne-prone skin. Great for people who feel their face looks “blah” or otherwise dull / tired.
- For each of the ingredients you listed above, please recommend at least 1 or 2 products (feel free to recommend more than that!) that contain it. Briefly explain in 1-2 sentences why you like each product or who it’s a good fit for.
- Peptides
Product 1: ALASTIN Restorative Skin Complex
Why: This has a lot of cool ingredients including TriHex Technology (a proprietary blend of active peptides that help to clear our damaged proteins thereby creating a fertile environment for new and healthy collagen).
Who: Excellent for people looking to address multiple signs of aging simultaneously (tone, texture, volume, integrity etc.)
Product 2: The Ordinary “Buffet: + Copper Peptides 1%
Why: This contains multiple peptide technologies as well as copper peptides making it anything but ordinary! The copper peptides are extra antioxidant boosting ingredients that help with collagen formation and skin firmness.
Who: Great for people post-procedure and suitable for most skin types.
- Bakuchiol
Product 1: Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptides
Why: This product combines the benefits of bakuchiol and the benefits of peptides in one!
Who: Excellent for those who are pregnant or nursing.
Product 2: UpCircle Eye Cream with Hyaluronic Acid
Why: This is an eco-friendly product that actually contains coffee oil from repurposed grounds as well as extract from maple bark.
Who: Just fabulous for the delicate eye area and helps to address dark circles and fine lines.
- Vitamin C
Product 1: SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic
Why: This has 15% pure vitamin C along with a touch of 1% vitamin E and a splash of 0.5% ferulic acid. Need I say more? This combination of products provides a rich and powerful supply of antioxidant protection and the Vitamin E and ferulic acid serve to strengthen the effect of vitamin C!
Who: Best for those seeking to even out and/or brighten skin tone
Product 2: Isdin Vitamin C and Hyaluronic Acid Serum
Why: I like the addition of hyaluronic acid in this serum as well as the Flavo-C Ultraglican product, which is a super potent antioxidant.
Who: People with dry skin and those looking to revitalize a dull looking appearance
- Niacinamide
Product 1: SkinCeuticals Metacell Renewal B3
Why: The ingredients are great and promote evening out skin tone (5% niacinamide), reducing fine lines/wrinkles (2.5% Firming Tri-peptide) and supplying the skin with intense hydration (15% of pure glycerin)
Who: Best for those with dehydrated skin along with early signs of aging or skin discoloration
Product 2: The Ordinary Niacinamide 10% + Zinc 1%
Why: High concentration of niacinamide is great for oily skin and the zinc helps to address skin blemishes.
Who: People with acne or acne prone skin
- Rosemary extract
Product 1: Kiehl’s Rare Earth Deep Pore Cleansing Mask
Why: The rosemary extract in this product is combined with amazonian white clay, which helps to detoxify and deeply clean out our skin pores.
Who: Best for oily skin and those with acne prone skin
Product 2: Aromatica Vitlizing Rosemary Firming Ampoule Serum
Why: This is a gentle and natural way to enhance elasticity and promote a youthful glow
Who: Great for people looking for a plant-based solution and have noticed some skin sagging
- What should someone look for in a retinol alternative if they have sensitive skin? What should they look for in a retinol alternative that will ensure it’s actually effective?
- Become an educated consumer or what I tell my clients is to become a “savvy skincare shopper” by knowing your ingredients, their concentrations and the goals you want to achieve.
For example:
Bakuchiol targets fine lines and wrinkle
Vitamin C brightens your skin and targets free radicals
Niacinamide controls oil and improves skin texture
- Be consistent
Use products that you can integrate into your skin regimen seamlessly. Results will come but only if you stick with the products over time.
- Look for clinically tested ingredients
For example, bakuchiol has actually been tested against retinols and demonstrated great results in clinical studies.
- Dont forget the basics
Things like sun protection, moisturizer and cleansers are critical to laying the foundation for a strong skin regimen.
- Youre not alone!
Dont be too hard on yourself. We all have imperfections. Look to your friends, go online or visit your dermatologist’s office for support along the way.